A monument that tells the Bulgarian story

Surely, most foreign visitors to Bulgaria are wondering what this country is all about and even after some time spent here, there is no clear answer to this question. Indeed, many aspects of Bulgarian life are fascinating, which we Bulgarians tend to take for granted or simply overlook. However, I will leave this more conspicuous side of Bulgaria to mainstream glossy tourist brochures. What I am interested in is to probe into some facts that, for one reason or another, have not been the focus of public attention

There are a number of tell-tale signs that show that we are continuing to drag our historical heritage along the path that has been blazed over a century ago. Foreigners, who have but a basic idea of Bulgaria, usually comment: "Ah, yes, Bulgaria, ex-communist bloc, the most loyal Soviet satellite." Bulgarians usually respond to that: "Yes that was back in the days of communism. This is over." But is it, really?

Bulgarians try to schizophrenically forget their loyalties for the 50 odd years of communist rule. We try to forget that we driveled at the Soviets for 5 decades. We try to forget, and yet, we have kept their monuments. Supposedly, in 1989 we drew the line, wiped the slate clean, turned the page and have been continuing to do so ever since. Nowadays, after nearly 20 years of democracy, a strong inclination towards western values (supposedly), a functioning (supposedly) multi-party political system and government institutions, with NATO and EU membership, Bulgaria looks like it is good value for money.

Although nominally all of the above is true, to a certain degree at least, one cannot help noticing a whiff of the "good old times" that is revamped and repackaged, but not beyond recognition.
A striking example would be the numerous megalomaniac monuments built in the communist era to honor the Soviet Army as “liberators”. Indeed, back in the day this was the name of the game; we needed to pay homage to a country that claimed East Europe at Yalta and Bulgaria was just a piece of the cake.

However, almost 20 years after the so-called changes, these monuments are even better maintained then in the heydays of communism. They stand erected in the very heart of major cities, in defiance of our own institutions and identity. Why monuments extolling a foreign occupying power are left untouched and, to make things even more absurd- maintained?!

So lets delve into the rationale of why such monuments should exist. Basically, a nation builds monuments to commemorate pivotal moments in history, nation-making, liberation, etc. Such as the Cenotaph in London, commemorating “the glorious dead” in the First World War. In building a monument for the Soviet troupes, what exactly are we extolling- an invading, marauding army that wedged itself through Eastern Europe after Hitler had ravaged it? What exactly were we liberated from? They came, they saw, they conquered. We then wallowed in their Orwellian ideology. And not only did we not resist- we built monuments of gargantuan proportion that dwarf every single monument and building of REAL national significance.

I am ashamed and disgusted. Every single day I walk to work past the Monument of the Soviet Army. It stands in the heart of our city as one of its centerpieces. Erected in a central city park, it looms large and defiant, undisturbed by surrounding buildings. Hence, not shadowed by anything but its own self-eminence and grandeur. On top, at a height of some 20 meters, a group of peasant-looking, Kalashnikov-yielding soldiers.

Obviously Bulgarians prefer a monument of a foreign army to a national hero or medieval Bulgarian tsar, a symbol of statehood, nationhood or simply the continuity of “what we have known and cared for”.